Tuesday, 12 February 2013

My Homestay Experience


It's me again (Running out of ways to introduce my posts other than 'hey it's Sean'.)

The holiday's in full swing! With all the trials and tribulations of last term now behind me, I am really looking forward to what this two-month holiday I have just embarked on will behold. This week, I am staying with a Japanese family, who's sitting room I am currently writing from. At the end of this week I will fly back to the UK for just under 2 weeks to do all sorts of catching up. The following week will be spent in Kobe since I need to show up to orchestra a bit (rehearsals continue through the holidays which has caused me all sorts of problems trying to negotiate when I can come because, obviously, I am not spending the entire two months here in Kobe in my panic-room-esque dorm). The next two weeks I am travelling with my parents around Japan, and finally I have 10 days in April with my friend from Uni, Steph who has a place on the island of Bali, Indonesia. Plenty to write about!

Ok so seeing as I'm on a homestay right now I will talk about that this post. I am going to try to update more this week too so I don't get to the end and forget everything I did like with my Tokyo post.

A 'homestay' is exactly what it says on the tin, staying in a Japanese household with a 'host' family. This is my first 'proper' homestay, but technically my second because I did a one-night homestay in Korea last summer. However it was kind of rubbish since instead of treating me like a normal family member they didn't speak to me at all and cooked me separate meals which was really weird.

A Japanese house differs to a western household in the following ways:

1) They aren't made of bricks they are made of...in fact I don't know but they look like they are made of plastic, like a massive porta-cabin.

The Morimoto household

Japanese houses always have the family name written by the entrance (The David bit is just the foreign student they had to stay with them before)




2) Japanese houses do not have central heating. Make no mistake though it gets just as cold here as the UK. Instead rooms are heated individually with an electric heater. This sounds like a hassle but I think it saves a lot of electricity since you only heat a room when you are using it.

3) This may not be 100% correct but from the houses I've been to in Japan everything is laminate floored. Since gets quite cold people always wear special slippers in the house, and there are separate slippers for going to the toilet.

4) Japanese houses all have a special hallway called a genkan, which is where people keep their outdoor shoes. The genkan is always at a lower level than the actual floor of the house, and when you enter the house you rise from the genkan, to translate directly.



5) For the bathroom, you always have to take a shower first before you enter the bath water.  I heard that it is also not customary to drain the bath water after use but in this house we use new water each time. 

This week I am living with the Morimoto family. This is my third day with them and we have been getting along really well. My 'mum', Mayumi, is from Kansai and you can tell, as she is really bubbly, has a strong sense of humor, full of energy, and kind of crude compared to most Japanese. My 'dad', Toru, is a civil servant. Most of the time he is at work so I haven't had a chance to get to know him incredibly well.

The first day isn't particularly interesting since we mainly just chilled at home and visited Toru's parents. Mayumi is a great cook and made us Bibimbap (this is a korean thing) for dinner. On Sunday we visited Osaka to have a look round some museums. Firstly we went to a history museum with a street of Osaka recreated in the Edo period (1600-1867), and after that a museum of retro Japanese electronic appliances such as old TVs, toasters and washing machines etc.

Recreation of an Edo period street


Even though it was a museum the realism was surprising as there were lots of people in kimono, and the 'weather' would suddenly change from sunny to stormy and dark, with storm clouds projected onto the ceiling. There were many traditional one-room houses, a bath house (with no water though), a pharmacy and market street so it was quite easy to get lost amongst it all!

Mum playing with a traditional catch the ball in the cup toy called a kendama

I also had a go

Outside the 'book store'

Photo outside the pharmacy with Dad. Behind the pharmacy there was a large (by Japan's standards) house, presumably belonging to the wealthy owner. If you look closely at the sign to the right of the photo there are some roman letters. They spell a Dutch name (Vloym Van Mittr or something). I'm not 100% sure but I assume this to be the name of the trading company. During the Edo period Japan operated a policy of national isolation; only the Chinese and the Dutch were permitted to trade with Japan at specially designated ports. In the Edo, trading with the Dutch was an important source of western technology (such as medicines) and was known as rangaku 'Dutch learning'. This represents some of the earliest western influences in Japan. 


Seeing as there are cars here, this scale model street must be from the Meiji period when trade with the west was opened up fully



Then we went to eat some takoyaki. This is octopus cut into small pieces fried in batter into a ball shape topped with a sweet sort of sauce, herbs, mayonnaise, and katsuo (fish flakes). This is a really popular food in Japan and even though it sounds like it could taste quite weird it's honestly delicious.

For dinner we went to a restaurant called 'The Old England', which marketed itself as an English restaurant, but, like all Western-style restaurants in Asia didn't serve anything even closely resembling English food (apart from the fish and chips). We ordered something called 'the English combo' which was a bowl of French fries, two bits of fried chicken, and a piece of battered fish. Dad had a 'medium' Guinness (an IRISH beer), what they call 1/2 pint, and Mum freaked out when I told her people normally drink twice of what Dad had ordered. The decor, looked like the houses of parliament, dark wood and those same kind of green leather chairs- so I guess that was authentic of England in a way.

Afterwards we went to a 'British pub', where we ordered 'roast beef', some slices of beef sitting on a tiny blob of mash floating in a pool of gravy. I thought it was really adorable of my host family going through the effort of taking me to all these 'British' places. Mum kept on asking me questions like "Is this like the real England?" Does this remind you of home?", and of course I lied because I couldn't bare to disappoint them after they'd gone through so much effort to track these places down.

Today we went for a walk round the beach. It was really cold so I obviously didn't go paddling but you could see Awaji Island and it the bridge connecting it to Honshu Island. I've also done a lot of TV watching here, not because I'm anti-social but because we don't have a TV in our horrible cramped dorm so I haven't had a chance to watch Japanese news before. Most of it seems to be centered on the Senkaku/Diaoyu (depending on whose side you're on) Islands dispute with China, and North Korea's plans to blow up Tokyo; stuff that makes me feel lucky to be from the UK.



That brings me up until this moment in time I am writing in terms of updates on my life. I'll try to update this week whilst I'm still in Japan, if not I'll probably write something on the plane journey home. See you soon, whoever you are reading this.

Sean

Monday, 4 February 2013

Something's on my mind

Hey everyone at home how are you getting on? Hope you all made it through January blues without needing a liver transplant. I'm writing to you today on a Tuesday afternoon from bed which I have yet to leave (I skipped class today). January has been a quiet month for me but I have been meaning to update for sometime to make up for my lacklustre post about Tokyo. Friday will be the end of this semester, this 15 week marathon of a semester, and I have found myself struck with waves of apathy about doing anything except waiting it out for freedom. I'm also slightly annoyed that I was supposed to be at the Sapporo snow festival right now, but due to a mix up of the term dates by Kobe University it turned out I had to stay here to take part in a laborious presentation exercise. I feel like a rant right now so I'm gonna have a rant- hard hats on people!

I knew Japan would be highs and lows and the past week has been a definite low. This isn't because I don't like Japan, find the culture confusing, or finding the language difficult anymore. I love Japan, know Kobe well, and can talk to people fine. The issue is Kobe University. Even though I've only mentioned these issues briefly on this blog before, I have been hit by a string of incompetencies by the University recently and am seriously considering dropping out from Kobe, severing all ties with them and moving to Osaka and finding a job there.

The problem is: we can't make Japanese friends here.

This is not my fault. I can communicate in Japanese fine now. It's because the set up here is completely wrong.

Issue 1: For a reason I will never understand we have been put in a department on the fringes of the university full of anti-social students who aren't interested in us. It would make a lot more sense to me to put us in the school of Intercultural studies, which is where every other foreign student is and well travelled Japanese people who would be more interested in us, and where lectures are perfectly pitched to our level. This term people have basically dropped out of their lectures since they're incomprehensible. I will never understand why such an incompetent decision as putting us here in the faculty of letters was made.

2: There has been next to no support network to help us integrate into such an antisocial department. There is one weekly 'international hour' which has turned into a laughing stock as our receptionist will just go into the common room clear everyone out just so us Oxford lot can sit there on our own drinking coffee with noone else bothering to show up more than once. There has also been no assistance in joining sports clubs and stuff which would be easy enough at home, but much harder to find and less accessible here. If there is a University psychologist we have no idea where they are; at the moment it is up to all of us to pick up the pieces when ever someone loses the plot.

3: Classes have been laborious. These are also every morning from 8.50-12.10 which is rough since they are conducted at 1mph. I could cover the same amount of material by myself in about half the time. Some teachers are very good, but others are inexperienced and nervous, without a clue of how to do anything except algorithmically follow the pattern of the textbook. By 12 we are knackered and simply do not have the energy to proactively leave our lonely faculty to look for Japanese friends. I do not believe we should even have to do this proactively; friends should have naturally gravitated towards us by now. Would it really be so hard to give us a break some days by moving the lessons forward by a period? apparently so.

I'd like to think I've tried really hard this term, and done better than most having got into the orchestra and icircle, but all of these are just one offs and this set up does not allow us to incorporate Japanese people into our daily lifestyle. Judging by the fact everyone around me seems to be emotionally breaking down with me verging ever closer to the edge makes it clear to me that something's wrong here. Because we have no friends, the Oxford lot are forced to do almost everything together. This inescapable intimacy is what's led to problems- we are just 12 random people all interested in the same subject, this does not mean our personalities will gel perfectly as friends, but right now we have no choice because we can't branch out for ourselves.

Like my friend said to me the other night "it shouldn't be this hard", and I agree. Another 15 weeks like this and the cracks will only get wider. I know some of this is just teething problems since this programme is brand new and we're the first year, in which case they should be prepared to make radical changes in time for next term to fix their own errors. Me and a friend are composing a letter to Oxford tonight to explain what I have just outlined. To be honest the solution is simple: move us to the faculty of intercultural studies, but when we asked about this there seems to be no flexibility on their part.

OK so rant over, please don't take this post as a sign that the whole experience has been miserable because this is not the case at all. I'm just not getting as much out of this as I'd hoped for. It really has nothing to do with me doubting my love of Japan. In fact, I cannot wait to come back here just not like this. If only I had the writing skills to word this more eloquently it wouldn't have sounded like such a rant. I just had to write about this since it's been on my mind for quite some time now.

As far as more positive news goes, I am visiting a really kind old lady tomorrow who I met at PechaKucha who invited me round to make me dinner and have a chat. Should be nice! On Sunday I am going on a 'homestay' at a Japanese household in Kobe which I'm sure I will have lots to say about on this blog. The family are a couple called Megumi and Toru, both 55. They have no pets (allergic) or kids (despise them) which is perfect for me. I'm looking forward to telling you all about this experience.

After that it's my flight home. I wasn't planning to come home but in light of all these fuck-ups I need some time to recharge for 2 weeks. I'm also excited to see our flat in Oxford for next year for real and not just through videos. Exciting times ahead.

Apologies, there wasn't any particular need to post the above issues here, on my blog for family and friends, it's just all I can think to write about at this minute.

Best,
Sean